Monday, November 2, 2009
Thursday, October 29, 2009
In working with the sheet metal pieces, I've developed a system of modeling and checking fit without having to cut metal. It's pretty common in the EV world to do Cardboard Mockups, but here's my take on it for sheet metal.
Model the sheet metal part
Monday, September 28, 2009
Time to order more aluminum sheet.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Monday, August 31, 2009
On the cosmetic end of things, I refinshed the front fender. In the sanding process, I discovered several layers of paint: Metallic blue, maroon, white, and royal blue at the bottom. Unfortunatley, the fender is not from this model of GSXR. Could possibly be from a '90 model like the fairing, but who knows. I guess some mounting brackets will be in the works next.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
I decided to recover the seat because it wouldn't cost much and makes a big difference cosmetically. Also visible in the pic is the latest mock up of the lower battery tray.
Monday, August 17, 2009
Thursday, July 30, 2009
The issue comes down to bending radius. The recommended minimum radius for bending 5052 Aluminum is .5 to 1.5 times the material thickness. With my 3/16" sheet, I figure that a .25" radius is about as small as I want to go. In discussing bending capabilities with the premier bending shop in the area they only had small radius tooling on their Brake, admitting that some cracking will occur at the bend.
I'm not to0 wild about cracks in my battery tray, so I will be building a homemade Brake on my workbench. Another project within a project. Obsessive? Anal Retentive? Ridiculous? Sometimes it's a gift, most days a curse.
I bent a 2" strip of 3/16" aluminum (6061-T6) in a vise using vise grips and small aluminum plates with a rough .25" radius, just to get a feel for the force required, and judge the bracket layout better. It took a lot more force than I imagined but turned out pretty good. Even with the .25" radius tooling, there were lots of micro-cracks in the radius, but that shouldn't be a problem with 5052 since it's more pliable.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Friday, June 5, 2009
I just had to do a quick connect with 12V to see the rear wheel turn under battery power. Most triumphant!
The battery's I used are some burned out SLA's from a UPS. I've been placing them on a charger to see if they can be recovered, but they wont hold a charge over 13.2V. Good enough for the demo and testing phase though.
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
The front sprocket and chain arrived from Grainger a few days ago, but the rear sprocket from Sprocket Specialist was taking it's sweet time. After finally arriving, I nearly choked at how big the sprocket was. Had I made an error calcualting the sprocket size? I estimated the 68 tooth sprocket at 13.75" diameter, but it looked like 16" to me. You know that saying "measure twice, cut once"? Well I'm famous for cutting twice, and sometimes more.
A tape measure told the truth: 13.875" (whew!). Still looks pretty big to me.
After putting together the hub and sprocket, I threw the rear wheel in place and cut the chain to length. Sprocket has a least 1/4" clearance from the swingarm, the chain fits and lines up just fine. Even the mislocated bolt pattern for the motor is not going to be a problem.
At this point, I'm feeling a little lucky and may go buy a few lottery tickets.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
You might notice the extra hole near one of the bolts for the motor face. Oops, the dummy running the mill forgot to zero the x & y axis before moving to the position for the first hole. To cover my mistake, I ended up rotating the bolt pattern 14 degrees, so now the chain will have less clearance for the mounting bolt closest to the swing-arm.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Another lesson learned from the first go-around with plasma is to orientate the pattern so the more accurate side is facing up. In my case, the left bracket was cut with the side that faces the motor on top.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Monday, May 4, 2009
I cleaned all the pieces of the rear suspension and put it back together. Initially I thought a spacer was missing on the linkage lever. Turns out it was assmbled incorrectly, and judging by the wear in mating aluminum pieces, been that way for a while. You can see how much more of the left spacer is exposed. While not catastrophic at this point, addtional wear could definately be a problem.
I have gone through several iterations on the wood patterns for the motor mounst and got the design close. I'm confident in the hole locations for the motor, but not too sure with the bracket locations on the frame. I needed a more accurate template to work with. The cheap solution was a piece of 3/8" x 1" aluminum bar with a printout of the only the frame hole pattern pasted on. After a couple of more tweaks, I should be ready to cut the actual 3/8" plate.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Thursday, January 29, 2009
I came up with this basic design a few days ago, but dismissed it because two 3/8" brackets will be fine to resist motor torque and vertical/hoizontal loading from the chain tension. But loads parallel to the shaft need something else. It came to me this morning, add an angle bracket and use the mounting holes in the case. (edit one year later: no additional pieces needed, the dual bracket arrangement is plenty strong with regards to axial loads.)
I was so jazzed at having a solution, I cranked out the template to make the wood prototype. I also tweaked the geometry on the left bracket, thinking I could cut them both and have the wood parts done. Haste makes waste...
I neglected to check if I had enough RotoZip bits
and busted my last one starting the new bracket. I did manage to cut out a sloppy version of the left bracket, so at least I could get it fitted. Wrong-O! In adjusting the bolt pattern location, I appearantly changed the bolt circle diameter, making that version completely worthless. The only bright side of these wasted efforts is that it's only wood, not the actual 3/8" Aluminum.